全球有机纺织品标准实施手册

International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard

全球有机纺织品标准国际工作组 - Technical Committee –

- 技术委员会 -

Manual for the implementation of the Global Organic Textile Standard 全球有机纺织品标准实施手册

Issue of 01 March 2011 2011年3月1日发布

Copyright: ? 2011 by 'International Working Group

on Global Organic Textile Standard'

版权所有? 2011：全球有机纺织品标准国际工作组

Contact联系网址:

www.global-standard.org

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Table of contents

Principles .............................................................................................................................. 3?总则 ...................................................................................................................................... 3?Official interpretations for specific criteria of the GOTS, Version 3.0 ................................... 4?3.0版GOTS具体要求的官方释义 ........................................................................................ 4?1.2 Scope and structure ................................................................................................... 4?1.2 适用范围 ..................................................................................................................... 4?2.1?Requirements for organic fibre production ................................................................. 4?2.1?有机纤维的农业生产要求 ............................................................................................ 4?2.3?General Requirements for chemical inputs in all processing stages .......................... 5?2.3?各加工阶段所用化学品投入物的总要求 ...................................................................... 5?2.3.1?Prohibited and restricted inputs .......................................................................... 5?2.3.1?禁用和限用投入物 ............................................................................................... 5?2.3.2?Requirements related to hazards and toxicity ..................................................... 8?2.3.2?关于危害和毒理的规定 ........................................................................................ 8?2.3.3?Assessment basis for chemical inputs ................................................................ 9?2.3.3?化学品投入物的评估依据 .................................................................................... 9?2.4.6?Dyeing ............................................................................................................... 11?2.4.6?染色................................................................................................................... 11?2.4.6 Dyeing and 2.4.7 Printing ................................................................................. 13?2.4.6?染色及2.4.7 印花 .............................................................................................. 13?2.4.7 Printing ............................................................................................................. 13?2.4.7?印花................................................................................................................... 13?2.4.11 Waste Water Treatment .................................................................................... 13?2.4.11?污水处理 ........................................................................................................... 13?2.4.13 Record keeping & internal quality assurance .................................................... 15?2.4.13?记录保存与内部质量保证 .................................................................................. 15?2.4.14 Technical quality parameters ............................................................................ 16?2.4.14? 质量技术参数 ................................................................................................... 16?2.4.15 Limit values for residues in GOTS Goods......................................................... 17?2.4.15?GOTS产品的残留限值...................................................................................... 17?2.4.16 Limit values for residues in additional materials and accessories .................... 17?2.4.16?其它材料和辅料的残留限值............................................................................... 17?3. Minimum social criteria ................................................................................................ 23?3. 最低社会标准 ............................................................................................................... 23?3.1 Scope ....................................................................................................................... 23?3.1 范围 .......................................................................................................................... 23?4.1 Auditing of processing, manufacturing and trading stages ....................................... 26?4.1 加工、制造和贸易活动的审核................................................................................... 26?4.2?Testing of Technical Quality Parameters and Residues ........................................... 30?4.2 质量技术参数和残留检测 .......................................................................................... 30?

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Principles 总则

This document provides interpretations and clarifications for specific criteria of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and related publications (e.g. the Licensing and Labelling Guide) approved by the Technical Committee (TC) of the International Working Group (IWG) where the current wording of the specific criteria could lead to (or already led to) inconsistent, inappropriate or even incorrect interpretation. It may further contain requirements for the application of the GOTS and the implementation of the related quality assurance system for certifiers.

本手册是关于国际工作组（简称IWG）技术委员会（简称TC）制定的全球有机纺织品标准及发布的有关指导文件（如：许可和标识指南）的释义和说明，它针对具体要求内容易导致（或已经导致）不一致和不准确甚至错误理解的用语，给予进一步的释义和说明。本手册还包含认证机构运用GOTS和实施相关质量保证体系的要求。

This manual is to be seen as a flexible quality assurance tool of the TC to give advice and clarification to the GOTS approved certifiers and users of the GOTS where felt necessary as it can be up-dated short-term, however it does not deal with revision questions of the current standard version or even set any revised criteria.

本手册是技术委员会提供给被授权GOTS认证机构和GOTS使用者的一个指导性的质量保证工具，必要时也可对本手册的内容进行及时的更新。本手册不涉及对本版标准的修订工作，也没有规定修订的准则。

The interpretations, corrections and further clarifications as provided with this document are binding for all GOTS Approved Certifiers and users of the GOTS. Any products already assessed and certified on basis of other interpretations which were also plausible with regard to the current wording of the GOTS retain their assessed / certified status. Any new assessments and certifications must be based on the official interpretations, corrections and clarifications as provided for in this document as soon as possible but no later than 12 months after their release unless no other / specific advice is given.

本手册进行的释义、修正和进一步的说明对所有被授权GOTS认证机构及GOTS使用者都具有约束力。任何已经评估和认证的产品，若其评估和认证不违背现行的GOTS，可保留其评估和认证状态。所有新的评估和认证，必须尽快依据本手册的官方释义、修正和说明进行，最迟不得超过本手册发布后12个月（除非另有规定）。

Preliminary remarks: 序注：

In the following the (relevant section of a) chapter of the GOTS is quoted where the interpretations, and further clarifications refer to. 以下引用GOTS有关原文作进一步的释义和说明。

In case not the whole wording of one chapter is quoted, the symbol '…' is used. 若没有完整引用一个章节的内容，则用符号“……”表示省略。

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Official interpretations for specific criteria of the GOTS, Version 3.0 3.0版GOTS具体要求的官方释义

1.2 Scope and structure 1.2适用范围

… \clothes and home textiles.\

……“终产品包括（但不限于）纤维产品、纱线、面料、服装和家用纺织品。”……

Interpretation: 释义：

In principle any product that can be considered as a textile fibre product is covered under the scope of this standard. The standard does not cover products made from non-fibre materials such as leather, skin, hide or rubber.

原则上，任何被视为纺织纤维产品的产品都涵盖在本标准范围之内。本标准不包括由诸如皮、毛皮或橡胶之类的非纤维原料制成的产品。

A product can only be certified and labelled ('organic' or 'made with organic') as a whole.It is not possible to certify and label only a part or component of a product.

一个产品只能以整体形式进行认证和标识（“有机”或“有机制成”），不允许只对产品的某个部分或某个组件进行认证和标识。

2.1 2.1 Requirements for organic fibre production 有机纤维的农业生产要求

“Approved are natural fibres that are certified organic and fibres from conversion period certified according to a recognised international or national organic farming standard by a certification body that has a valid accreditation for the recognised standard it certifies against and is that IFOAM accredited or internationally recognised (according to ISO 65).” …

“接受由IFOAM （国际有机农业运动联盟）认可的或国际公认的（根据ISO65）认证机构按公认的国际或国家有机农业标准进行认证的有机天然纤维和转换纤维，其中，认证机构在实施认证时，必须具有该公认标准的有效认可认证资质。”……

Interpretation: 释义：

USDA NOP, EC 834/2007, national regulations from countries recognised on the list of third countries according to regulation EC 345/2008 (only if compliance with all relating specifications as of EC 345/2008 is assured) and standards that are approved to comply with the IFOAM Basic Standards (IBS) are considered as 'recognised international or national standards'. An organic farming standard is approved to comply with IBS if a certification body is accredited to it by the IFOAM accreditation body IOAS (as IOAS assesses whether a standard meets the IBS prior accrediting a certification body to it).

USDA NOP（美国农业部国家有机项目）、欧盟法规EC 834/2007、欧盟法规EC 345/2008认可的第三国国家标准（但要确保满足欧盟法规EC 345/2008的相关规定）和被确认符合IFOAM基本标准（IBS）的标准均被视为“公认的国际或国家标准”。若IFOAM的认可机构IOAS对一个认证机构就某个有机农业生产标准进行了认可，则说明该有机种植

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标准符合IBS（因为IOAS在对认证机构就某个标准进行认可之前，会评估该标准是否符合IBS）。

Further clarifications: 进一步说明：

Organic fibre certification according to JAS is not possible. (-> per definition of JAS) 有机纤维不可根据JAS标准进行认证。（-> 依据JAS标准的定义）

Certification of 'in conversion' (resp. 'in transition') status is not possible according to USDA NOP. (-> per definition of NOP)

“转换”（或“过渡”）状态的认证不可根据USDA NOP标准进行。（-> 依据NOP标准的定义）

The organic fibre production and certification for textile products to be sold in the USA and labelled 'organic' or 'made with organic' according to GOTS must be based on USDA NOP.(-> per USDA policy)

在美国销售并按GOTS标准标识为“有机”或“有机制成”的纺织品，其所使用的有机纤维必须是根据USDA NOP标准进行生产和认证的纤维。（-> 依据USDA政策）

2.3 2.3

General Requirements for chemical inputs in all processing stages 各加工阶段所用化学品投入物的总要求

2.3.1 Prohibited and restricted inputs 2.3.1 禁用和限用投入物

Substance group 物质类别

Aromatic solvents 芳香族溶剂

Chlorophenols (including their salts and esters)

氯酚（包括氯酚盐和氯酚酯） Complexing agents and surfactants

络合剂和表面活性剂

Criteria 要求

Prohibited 禁用

Prohibited (such as TeCP, PCP) 禁用（诸如TeCP、PCP）

Prohibited are: 禁用物质包括：

- all APEOs (i.e. nonylphenol, octylphenol, APEOs terminated with functional groups, APEO-polymers)

- 所有APEO类物质（如：壬基苯酚、辛基苯酚、端基有功能团的APEO类物质、APEO聚合物)

- EDTA, DTPA, NTA - EDTA, DTPA, NTA

- LAS, α-MES - LAS, α-MES

Prohibited (such as PFOS and PFOA) 禁用（诸如PFOS和PFOA） Prohibited 禁用 Prohibited

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Fluorocarbons 碳氟化合物

Formaldehyde and other short-chain aldehydes 甲醛及其它短链醛 Genetically modified