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ÇëÄúɾ³ýÒ»ÏÂÄÚÈÝ£¬O(¡É_¡É)Oлл£¡£¡£¡2015ÄêÖÐÑëµç´óÆÚÄ©¸´Ï°¿¼ÊÔС³´óÈ«£¬µç´óÆÚÄ©¿¼ÊԱر¸Ð¡³£¬µç´ó¿¼ÊԱعýС³After earning his spurs in the kitchens of The Westin, The Sheraton, Sens on the Bund, and a sprinkling of other top-notch venues, Simpson Lu fi nally got the chance to become his own boss in November 2010. Sort of. The Shanghai-born chef might not actually own California Pizza Kitchen (CPK) but he is in sole charge of both kitchen and frontof- house at this Sinan Mansions'stalwart. \well,\oy Shanghai. \to learn how a business operates across the board.\It was a task that management back in sunny California evidently felt he was ready for, and a vote of confi dence from a company that, to date, has opened 250 outlets in 11 countries. And for added pressure, the Shanghai branch was also CPK¡¯s China debut. \sure it was a big step, and unlike all their other Asia operations that are franchises, they decided to manage it directly to begin with,\says Simpson. Two years ago a private franchisee took over the lease, but the links to CPK headquarters are still strong, with a mainland-based 'brand ambassador¡¯ on hand to ensure the business adheres to its ethos of creating \hearth-baked pizzas\a slice of PR blurb that Simpson insists lives up to the hype. \are very innovative,\he says. \problem with most fast food places is that they use the same sauce on every pizza and just change the toppings. Every one of our 16 pizza sauces is a unique recipe that has been formulated to complement the toppings perfectly.\The largely local customer base evidently agrees and on Saturday and Sunday, at least, the place is teeming. The kids-eat-for-free policy at weekends is undoubtedly a big draw, as well as is the spacious second-fl oor layout overlooked by a canopy of green from Fuxing Park over the road. The company is also focusing on increasing brand recognition and in recent years has taken part in outside events such as the regular California Week. Still, the sta are honest enough to admit that business could be better; as good, in fact, as in CPK¡¯s second outlet in the popular Kerry Parkside shopping mall in Pudong. \Mansions has really struggled to get the number of visitors that were envisaged when it first opened, and it hasn¡¯t been easy for any of the tenants here,\adds Simpson. \planning a third outlet in the city in 2015, and we will probably choose a shopping mall again because of the better foot traffic.\The tearooms once frequented by Coco Chanel and Marcel Proust are upping sticks and coming to Shanghai, Xu Junqian visits the Parisian outpost with sweet treats. One thing the century-old Parisian tearoom Angelina has shown is that legendary fashion designer Coco Chanel not only had style and glamor but also boasted great taste in food, pastries in particular. One of the most popular tearooms in Paris, Angelina is famous for having once been frequented by celebrities such as Chanel and writer Marcel Proust. Now Angelina has packed up its French ambience, efficient service, and beautiful, comforting desserts and flown them to Shanghai. At the flagship dine-in and take-out space in Shanghai, everything mimics the original tearoom designed from the beginning of the 20th century, in Paris, the height of \Epoque\The paintings on the wall, for example, are exactly the same as the one that depicts the landscape of southern France, the hometown of the owner; and the small tables are intentional imitations of the ones that Coco Chanel once sat at every afternoon for hot chocolate. The famous hot chocolate, known as L¡¯Africain, is a luxurious mixture of four types of cocoa beans imported from Africa, blended in Paris and then shipped to Shanghai. It¡¯s sinfully sweet, rich and thick as if putting a bar of melting chocolate directly on the tongue and the fresh whipped cream on the side makes a light, but equally gratifying contrast. It is also sold in glass bottles as takeaway. The signature Mont-Blanc chestnut cake consists of three parts: the pureed chestnut on top, the vanilla cream like stuffing, and the meringue as base. Get all three layers in one scoop, not only for the different textures but also various flavors of sweetness. The dessert has maintained its popularity for a century, even in a country like France, perhaps the world¡¯s most competitive place for desserts. A much overlooked pairing, is the Paris-New York choux pastry and N226 chocolate flavored tea. The choux pastry is a mouthful of airy pecan-flavored whipped cream, while the tea, a blend of black teas from China and Ceylon, cocoa and rose petals, offers a more subtle fragrance of flowers and chocolate. Ordering these two items, featuring a muted sweetness, makes it easier for you to fit into your little black dress. Breakfast, brunch, lunch and light supper are also served at the tearoom, \takes in \mix of different styles of French cuisines\according to the management team. The semi-cooked foie gras terrine, is seductive and deceptive. It¡¯s generously served at the size and shape of a toast, while the actual brioche toast is baked into a curved slice dipped with fig chutney. The flavor, however, is honest: strong, smooth and sublime. And you don¡¯t actually need the toast for crunchiness. This is the season for high teas, with dainty cups of fine china and little pastries that appeal to both visual and physical appetites. But there is one high tea with a difference, and Pauline D. Loh finds out just exactly why it is special. Earl Grey tea and macarons are all very well for the crucial recuperative break in-between intensive bouts of holiday season shopping. And for those who prefer savory to sweet, there is still the selection of classic Chinese snacks called dim sum to satisfy and satiate. High tea is a meal to eat with eye and mouth, an in-between indulgence that should be light enough not to spoil dinner, but sufficiently robust to take the edge off the hunger that strikes hours after lunch. The afternoon tea special at Shang-Xi at the Four Seasons Hotel Pudong has just the right elements. It is a pampering meal, with touches of luxury that make the high tea session a treat in itself. Whole baby abalones are braised and then topped on a shortcrust pastry shell, a sort of Chinese version of the Western vol-au-vent, but classier. Even classier is the dim sum staple shrimp dumpling or hargow, upgraded with the addition of slivers of midnight dark truffles. This is a master touch, and chef Simon Choi, who presides unchallenged at Shang-Xi, has scored a winner again. Sweet prawns and aromatic truffles ¡ª what¡¯s not to love? His masterful craftsmanship is exhibited in yet another pastry ¡ª a sweet pastry that is shaped to look like a walnut, but which you can put straight into the mouth. It crumbles immediately, and the slightly sweet, nutty morsel is so easy to eat you¡¯ll probably reach straight for another. My favorite is the dessert that goes by the name yangzhi ganlu, or ambrosia from the gods. The hotel calls it chilled mango cream with sago, pomelo and bird¡¯s nest ¨C made with ingredients that resonate with every female soul. It does taste like ambrosia, with the sweet-sour fragrance of the mango forming the first layer of taste and sensation, and the pomelo sacs and sago pearls providing the tactile contrast. The bird¡¯s nest ¡ª it¡¯s the ingredient that gilds the lily, since it is supposed to nourish and nurture a perfect complexion. For those unfamiliar with this exotic ingredient, the bird¡¯s nest is not a bundle of twigs, but is, instead, the dried secretion that cave swifts use to build their nest. Technically, it¡¯s bird saliva, but the Chinese believe that it has collagen-boosting properties essential to beauty. To me, it just tastes good, adding a slight gelatinous crunch to the back of the teeth. There is also a baked mushroom puff pastry that includes the highly prized Matsutake or pine mushroom. You also get a choice of teas, but I strongly recommend the aged Pu¡¯er from Yunnan province. It is a mellow tea that will go perfectly with the rich little nuggets, and will warm you up on a cold afternoon. Incidentally, the general guide is green tea such as Longjing or Dragonwell for the hot season, semi-fermented teas like Wu-long or Iron Buddha for autumn, and more warming teas like Pu¡¯er for winter. The Shang-Xi afternoon tea costs 228 yuan ($37) per person, and 388 yuan for the more opule
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